FAVORITE PATTERNS OF CLARK-SKAMANIA FLYFISHERS
Nymphs, Streamers and Wet Flies
Timothy Buckley
Rickard’s Stillwater Nymph
# 12-18 2XL nymph
Hook:
Orange Grizzly Hackle Palmered over brown dubbing (Rickard’s pattern calls for died orange, I use plain ginger hackle)
Rib:
Hackle:
Head:
Marabou (extended from tail and pulled over the top); can be weighted with lead free wire
Tail:
Thread
Body:
Olive
Olive Marabou (I use other colors from brown, tan, and cream)
Fine copper wire
Whip finish and head cement.
Notes: According to Philip Rowley in an old past article on www.flyanglersonline.com:
Denny Rickards is an outstanding still-water angler. Based in Oregon, Denny uses only five fly patterns for his entire stillwater fly fishing. The Stillwater Nymph is one of these five. Denny is not a proponent of direct imitation but prefers to use his suggestive patterns coupled with a variety of different retrieves and depths to imitate the varied menu of stillwater trout. Well aware that damsel fly nymphs and scuds are important items on the trout's menu, Denny set about developing a fly to simulate both food sources at once. His favorite retrieves include the handtwist, a slow 2- to 4-inch pull or a short and rapid 1- to 2-inch strip. Expect aggressive takes with the short rapid retrieve.
My Notebook: On a trip to the Caraboo in B.C. Canada I had lost all of my other stillwater nymphs the first morning, and reluctantly decided to try tying this one on (with cream marabou). I was reluctant to use it as it did not look like any insect I was seeing in the water but I was desperate. The Fish loved them. Those flies that survived came back from Canada just shredded, and even in that tattered state they are still working for me in Washington’s Alpine lakes. I love how fast they are to tie. I used the retrieve indicated above, but found the fly was often getting pounded just at the end of a retrieve as I was pulling back to re-cast…so I would add very quick arm length retrieves to my erratic retrieve repertoire to great success. It should be of no surprise that I continue to find this fly to be very effective in Washington Cascade and lowland lakes.
Timothy Buckley
Little Fort Leech
Black Marabou (with a shorter “hot spot” pinch of red marabou on top)
Hook:
Tail:
#6-10 (2XL or streamer hook), Barbless
Thread
Black to suit
Body:
Black chenille, or dark peacock chenille
Hackle:
Black saddle, palmered skinny from the back to larger in front.
Notes:
How To Fish it: I generally use this fly as a searching pattern on a sinking or intermediate line, and will often throw one on and troll with it while rowing to a different part of the lake… Just make certain to have your rod well secured as some of the strikes have been very violent (two of my friends nearly lost rods).
My Notebook: This is another fly I learned about preparing for a fly fishing trip to the Plateau alpine lakes north of Kamloops (and North West of Little Fort) British Columbia. It was the recommended go-to fly by the fishing camp owner I was heading to. I purchased a handful at the Little Fort Fly Shop along with my license on my way into the wilderness to get to the fishing camp, and quickly discovered why it is recommended by the locals. Day one I had lost half of the flies on huge strikes before amping up my tippet. Fortunately I had brought my tying kit, and with these simple materials kept myself in stock by tying in the cabin at night. It is still a favorite searching pattern I use regularly in Washington Lakes, often to great success. Including a trip back to the Kamloops area in BC last week as I write this that just brought to hand my largest trout in 10 years.
Head:
Bead or cone to suit
Peter Anderson
Clyde-style Midge
Any wet fly, size 14 - 18
Hook:
Thread
Body:
Black, or dark gray 70 dineir
Hackle:
Two wraps of thread
1-2 turns of small Starling breast feather stripped of fibers on one side
Wing:
Small piece of Starling wing
Notes: Keep it sparse. This works really well as a dropper on a dry fly on lakes or swung behind a wet fly in a river.
Paul Dunlop
Coldwater Lake Leech
Black marabou with chartreuse Flashabou
Hook:
Tail:
#10 Hanák 400 Bl Jig hook
Red Lagartun French Flatbraid and Spawn UV Simi Seal Dubbing Black/UV Chartreuse Green
Thread
Body:
Head:
Black Semperfli Nano Silk 12/0
1/8-3.3 Togens Tungsten Jigoff Cool Bead in Fluro Chartreuse
Notes: A larger bead can be used for a faster sink rate if needed.
Paul Dunlop
Bling Beetle
Over and under body Peacock Loco Foam (coat underbody with Solarez Bone Dry)
Thread:
Body:
Legs:
Black Semperfli Nano Silk 12/0
Hook:
#12 MFC Wide Gap Jig (60 degree)
Krystal Flash and small rubber legs
Wing:
Glo-Brite Fluorescent Floss #4
Notes: The jig hook helps the fly land right side up. I use it with success in the lakes around Mt. St. Helens.
Kuni Masuda
Red Fox Squirrel Nymph
#2 to #18, Mustad 9671 or Tiemco 5262
Hook:
Tail:
Thread:
Red fox squirrel skin
#6 Black, dark brown or orange nylon
Partridge
Body:
Hackel:
Red fox squirrel from belly fur
Orange, brown or black thread
Notes: I used SLF Dave Whitlock Dubbings. “Red Fox Squirrel Nymph Thorax” and “Red Fox Squirrel Nymph Abdomen”.
This fly is very effective and producer for lakes and river for me. The fly was developed by Dave Whitlock in early 1960’s. It looks alive, vulnerable and very edible to fish. A trout, actively feeding or not, seldom ignores such a slow swimming or drifting toward it.
Head:
Rib:
Gold color wire or gold tinsel
Joe Smith
Carey Special
Tiemco 3761 2X Sproat Bend Nymph
Hook:
Thread:
Tail:
Body:
Hackel:
Veevus 70 Black
Pheasant Brown Fibers 1/3 body Lenght
Peacock Herl
Pheasant Rump
Rib:
Fine Copper Wire
Head:
Small Black
Notes: A very simple tie. Great for a subsurface search pattern.
Jerry Brask
Pumpkinhead
#12, 10. Streamer style.
Hook:
Thread:
Tail:
Body:
Hackel:
Rib:
Brown or orange-brown 6/0
Orange maribou
Brown or orange-brown thread
Light brown or orange-brown
Very fine gold wire
Head:
Orange glasss bead
Notes: Vary size as you prefer.
I am an average tyer and so many of you are top notch. The fly has been successful, and you will improve on it.
Peter Anderson
Guarantee Attractor
#8-12 nymph
Hook:
Thread
Body:
Black - 70 denier
Hackle:
Peacock body, red krystal flash tag
Blue peacock breast
Rib:
Notes: For larger flies (#8) wrap blue peacock around hook, directed backwards, For smaller flies, tie in clumps of blue peacock in clumps on all sides of hook and secure with a drop of superglue before completing head.
This fly works really well on lakes, particularly when the sun is shining
Fine red wire
Mark Meyer
Clark Stonefly
#6 Umpqua U203 (curved straight eye) flat gold/ brass color (or similar variants)
Hook:
Thread:
Orange 6/0
Gold Tinsel
Body:
Brown Neck Hackle
Hackle:
Wing:
Clark's Tying Yarn (yellow/ orange) and elk hair. Its a poly yarn.
Whip finish with orange thread and cement
Head:
Notes: Mix up the basic materials and recipe to create your own variant. Not too much though to lose the magic of this go to pattern during the Salmon fly hatches. The tinsel is the weakest part after trout hit it. I'd like to find a stronger variant.
I met Lee Clark some 20+ years ago at a show at Glen Otto Park, maybe as a newbie CSF member? He had samples of his Clark Stonefly pattern and we discussed their effectiveness to target large trout in May/ June on the "D". I bought his magic yellow/ orange yarn kits and have since made these to lure many trout (some footballs) to hard takes and into my net. By far the simplest tie that looks exactly like the Salmon and Golden Stone flies they imitate. I'm busy in my working era and tying a few spares is an easy endeavor in case an overhung tree steals one, or trout teeth destroy one! Far easier than the stimulator that I've mostly abandoned for tying and usage. I will send another photo of the yarn kits and Lee's business card.
Shawn West
Semiseal Leech
#8 3xl nymph
Hook:
Thread:
Tail:
Thread to match dubbing
Arizona Simiseal
Arizona Semiseal; shown in Watermelon Red
Body:
Head:
Brass or tungsten bead; plain or colored
Notes: Tie fairly sparse.
These are very effective for small mouth bass in the Columbia River and its embayments. My favorite colors are watermelon red, black and red, and black and blue
Ed Sale
Red Neck Balanced Leech
Dark purple maribou, black Crystal Flash
Hook:
Tail:
Thread:
Body:
#10 Fulling Mill Jig Force Long Black Nickel
Black 6-0; Neck - Ultra Thread Fl. Red
Arizona Diamond Black Blue Dubbing
Head:
Hareline Insta Jig Tungsten head.
Notes: After tying body, add Fl Red 140 denier thread "neck". Suggest super glue Tungsten Head before tying rest of fly. When done dip fly in almost boiling water to make dubbing stream back smoothly.
Generally fished under an indicator about 6-9 feet. Found it very effective in lakes. such as Coldwater, Burke, Oregon Fishing Club lakes, Laurence Lake, Timothy Lake
Doug Anderson
Balanced Leech
Marabou color to match body, 1/2 to full length of body
Hook:
Tail:
Thread:
Body:
#6 to 12, standard jig hook, 2 or 3X length
Size 6 or 8; color to match body
Arizona simi seal in a dubbing loop. Olive, tan, browns, black, purple all work. Well brushed out on finished fly.
Notes: First step is to tie a straight pin (with bead) onto the hook adding 1/4 to 1/2 additional body length (depending on weight of bead). If your straight pin is too long for the hook just cut it to the proper length with a good wire cutter.
Fish with a slow retrieve stopping frequently. Has been very effective in lakes for all species of trout and small mouth bass (in warmer water). Killer pattern for lakes in the White Mountains of Arizona once you find the size and color they want that day (or hour). I didn't know about this fly the 18 years I was fishing in Washington and Oregon.
Head:
Tungsten bead on straight pin
Doug Anderson
Damsel Nymph
size 6 (for larger flies) or 8 (works best on the smaller versions) Color to match fly
Hook:
Thread:
Tail:
#10-16 nymph hook; standard or 2X length
Marabou to match body equal to hook length
Body:
Marabou twisted into a rope. Olive seems to work best.
Rib:
Gold or copper wire
Head:
Red bead seems to be the best
This fly is similar to one I was introduced to by Denny Way at Lenice Lake and tied by many CSF tiers. Chuck Holstein provided me with many of those for Goose Lake and other still waters. This variation (or copy?) has worked fabulously in the lakes on the White Mountain Apache Reservation and national forest lakes near Pinetop, AZ. It can be fished as a stand-alone nymph or under a dry fly indicator. It also works well when fished behind a streamer like a Wooly Bugger. It has brought in several Apache Trout (unique to AZ) as well as lots of Rainbows and Cutthroats as well as a few Browns.
Olive Willy
Chuck Holstein
#12, TMC 5212
Hook:
Thread:
size 6 Red or Olive
Tail:
Body:
Pheasant rump after feather
Medium Chenille - Olive
Miyuki 8/0 Red Silver-Lined Glass Bead
Hackel:
Head:
Pheasant Rump
Notes: The fluffy webbing from the shaft of a pheasant rump feather can also be used for the tail.
About 1995 Swede (aka Allen Peterson) decided that Swede’s Fly Shop in Woodinville, Washington needed a signature fly. So he told one of his tiers to invent one, and pretty soon the Olive Willy was born. When Swede moved his fly shop to Spokane, Washington in 2003 he naturally brought the fly, along with a few thousand others, with him. Swede caught 37 rainbows in 2-1/2 hours in one of our quality lakes in central Washington using the Olive Willy and a fast sink line.
Kris Kringle
Jack Whitney
Wolly Bugger hook
Hook:
Thread:
Light Green
Tail:
Body:
A small pinch of red dubbing
Light green dubbing
Green barbed, palmered along body. Barb dark green saddle hackle
Head:
Hackel:
Pearl bead
Notes: Ed Sale came up with this fly and tied a handful of them which he passed out telling us what a great fly it was. Great for Eastern Washington lakes. So I took a couple and fished them. I caught a few fish, so I kept it in my fly box. Before the poachers discovered Lake Lenore and greatly depleted the population, CSF fished it frequently. The poaching removed a lot of fish and the fishing went sour. So we went on to other lakes which held fish, but not as big and plentiful as the Lahontan Cutthroat in Lake Lenore had been. After several years, we heard that Lake Lenore was again fishing well, so we decided to try it on our way back to Soap Lake from the lakes we had been fishing that day. About a dozen of us stopped for an hour of fishing. I chose to fish the Kris Kringle. During that hour, one person didn’t have any luck and the balance caught one, except for myself and another member who caught two fish each. Usually I am the one who is fishless, so it had to be the fly I was using—the Kris Kringle. When I next saw Ed and told him of my success, he looked me directly in the eye and started to laugh, saying that fly was tied as a joke and not meant to be fished.
Ed Sale
Stick Fly
#12-14 Generic nymph hook
Hook:
Tail:
Thread:
5-6 fibers of generic brown hackle
Brown thread, slight taper from thorax to tail
Body:
Brown 6-0 thread - I use Montana Fly Thread
Thin peacock herl twisted on thread.
Notes: Thread wrap body; tie in tail fibers about hook gap length; trim and use thread for body forward. Tie in 3-4 generic hackle fibers, tips even and forward 3-4 mm in front of eye. Trim ends. Tie in peacock herl thorax which is twisted on brown thread for strength. Tie off behind thorax - whip finish there. Suggest Hard as Nails or similar to seal thread body.
Started tying it years ago after CSF tying class. Use as dropper in lake, often when nothing else works. Also as dropper in slower streams or rivers. Simple fly. Remarkably effective.
Thorax:
Kuni Masuda
Shakey Bealy
Woodduck or dyed Mallard flank feather
Hook:
Tail:
Thread:
#8 to 16 Tiemco 5262 2X nymph
8/0 or 70 Denier, rusty brown
Natural partridge feather and orange Crystal Flash
Body:
Hackel:
Head:
Light olive dubbing
Brown thread
Rib:
3/0 or 210 denier thread, rusty brown
Notes: This attractor pattern was developed by Frank Beals. It represents emerging caddis flies as they ascended to the surface. Also, more colorful versions could simulate small baitfish. Very simple fly for beginning tiers. This attractor wet flies, swinging along on a sinking line, were grabbing the attention of browns and rainbows.
Greg Clarke
Kingfisher Butcher
#10 wet fly
Hook:
Thread:
Tail:
White nano silk
Kingfisher blue goose shoulder
White unistretch underbody; flat gold tinsel
Body:
Rib:
Fine gold wire
Orange hackle
Wing:
Hackel:
Head:
Mallard speculum
Black thread
Notes: Very good lake fly designed by James Ogden (?)
Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear
Kemper Hall W/ Ken Winkleback
Black 8/0 or 6/0
Hook:
Thread:
Body:
Rib:
Tail:
#8-16 Mustad 3906B
Hare's mask fur
Medium gold tinsel
Tuft of Hare's poll hair
Wing case:
Brown mottled turkey
With or without bead
Notes: Wrap a few turns lead wire over the base hook shank. Leave some hare's mask guard hairs on the Thorax .
In honor of Ken (WINK), good friend and long time CSF member, net & rod builder, fly tyer, casting instructor, fish master. Builder of the Merrill Lake fly fishing sign (still standing). He always carried a well stocked fly box but go-to was a #16 Hare's Ear.
Head:
Hare's Mask Pearlescent Soft Hackle
Russ Flaskerud
Hook:
Thread:
#12-2X long nymph hook
Brown or Black 6/0 Uni-thread or your favorite
Body:
Hare's Mask or Natural Hareline Dubbin
Hackel:
Partridge Hackle
Copper, Gold, or Silver Fine Wire
Rib:
Other:
Notes: Use 2 thin strips of pearlescent mylar down each side of the body may use pearlescent Flashabou also. Tie on your small wire ribbing prior to tying on the mylar strips. Palmer the wire ribbing over the mylar strips with 4-5 turns up to the eye of the hook leaving room to tie on your partridge hackle.
I usually tie my soft hackles rather small, sizes #18-#16, but I tied a few with the mylar down the sides in larger #12-1X and 2X long hooks using various body materials, like olive hare's ear and peacock. They all seem to work. Fished the hare's mask body soft-hackle below Eagle Cliff Bridge on the Lewis River with a couple friends 2 years ago on the Lower Falls Outing and had great success. I fished it on a sink-tip as a dropper below a black Bugger. Ive also had success with these mylar soft-hackles when fishing lakes using an intermediate sinking line. Tight Lines!
Pearlescent Mylar down each side of the body, very thin strips
Mr. Magic
Forrest Koponen
Olive 8/0 or 6/0
Hook:
Thread:
Body:
Rib:
Tail:
#12, 2x long nymph hook
Peacock herl
Small red wire
Olive marabou
Hackle:
Partridge soft hackle
With or without bead
Notes: #1 Start a wrap from about the diameter of wrap the wire and about 3 or 4 peacock herls the length of the hook shaft with touching turns of thread to the bend of the hook. #2 Wrap on the tail then wrap thread back to hook eye. #3 Twist the peacock herl and wire into a chenille then wrap to hook eye. If there is not enough, twist another length of chenille. #4 You only need enough hackle for 2 wraps at the most. Carefully wrap hackle with touching turns being careful not to cross over the wraps. Finish head. Go fishing.
Head:
Kuni Masuda
Steel-Blue Tuxedo Midge
No tail but option to adds shuck for emerging stage.
Hook:
Tail:
Thread:
#14-#20 scud hook
#8 to #14 black Uni-thread
Body:
Black Peacock Flashabou.
Thorax:
Peacock
Notes: Black Peacock flashabou strip should slightly stretched for a better shade of green. I use a strip of fine wire for larger chironomids and they have many ribbs but I use 5-6 wrappings with fine silver wire for visibility. Chironomids can be found at various depths, so it's critical to fish at the right level. The key is finding where the fish are feeding, and the sizes and colors of the midge larve.
Usually no ribbing. I use superfine silver wire for later stage of pupa and emerging stage.
Rib:
Black or gray tundsten bead to match hook size.
Gill:
Head:
White CDC or glow yarn
Mike Butcher
White Ghost
#6 to #10, Daiichi 1720; 2x or 3X long nymph hook
Hook:
Under hackle I use two turns or so over grizzly neck fiber. Over hackle, one to two turns of mallard flank in spider fashion. The grizzly keeps the mallard from sticking close to the body.
Rib:
Hackle:
Head:
Ice Dub, Pearl Red or STS Tri Lobal, white. Brush out to your preference.
Tail:
Thread
Body:
White, 8/0
Mallard flank
Medium gold tinsel
White thread. However, when using as a baitfish imitation, I've been playing with silver and blue tungsten beads.
Notes: I'm drawn to the old patterns I was introduced to as a kid. I've known about the White Ghost almost as long as I can remember being alive. The White Ghost is an old Southwest Washington Harvest Trout Pattern. Harvest trout being the nom de rigueur for sea-run cutthroat trout in Southwest Washington.
All of my mentors that have passed were fond of the White Ghost. Watching a March Summer steelhead take the "Ghost" on the lower Toutle was awe inspiring. Both for the take of the fly itself and the rarity of summer runs in the Toutle at that time. Although the "Ghost" was designed for Harvest trout, it makes a great baitfish pattern, especially in the salt water. A buddy used it with great success on Bristol Bay streams for ice out Bows but added strips of blue flashabou.
Bill True
Stonefly
#6 TMC 200R
Hook:
Thread:
Tail/ Antenna:
Body:
Legs:
White 140 denier
And Antenna: 2 pieces of white 20# fly line backing
Cream furry foam
30# whitefly line backing
Rib:
FLatex cream colored
Wing:
Tyeck cut to shape and size
The front wing pad is folded back over the eyes to form the head
Eyes:
Head:
Black seed beads attached with mono
Notes: This fly is tied with white or cream colored material so that it can be colored with a marker to match the natural ones. When I went fishing with my Dad, we would fish the Colorado River in Hot Sulfur Springs, Colorado. We used the native stoneflies which were found under rocks near the shore. My Dad called them Helgamites, as he had been taught by his Uncle Hen. When I learned to tie this pattern he was thrilled to use a fly that match the natural insects.