Cutthroat and Butterflies: A Lochsa Adventure
The original plan—backpacking into the Selway Wilderness for cutthroat—melted under a 95-degree heat dome. It was a blistering 105 in Lewiston, Idaho, on the way over. A younger version of me would’ve hoisted the pack and slugged it out, maybe even hiking through the night. Current me? Not so much.
Instead, I made Wilderness Gateway on the upper Lochsa River my home base for the week. The Lochsa is famous for two things: accessible cutthroat fishing and massive whitewater. Lewis and Clark even followed this route on their Voyage of Discovery. I was last here 30 years ago while taking Mike to college and had always promised myself a return trip.
The Rhythm of the River
Given the heat, I stuck to a "hoot owl" schedule: fishing until noon, then retiring to camp to read and nap. I landed a few picture-perfect cutthroat (nothing of any great size) and marveled at the "butterfly hatch."
While Highway 12 provides excellent access with frequent turn-offs, the road noise definitely impacts the ambiance. If you’re looking for total isolation, you’ll want to look elsewhere.
It was disheartening to see the deteriorating condition of our Forest Service facilities. It feels like they are no longer in sync with today’s demographics or recreational priorities.
Wilderness Gateway Observations:
The Crowd: Despite being July—the height of summer—the campground was mostly occupied by RV transients. There were no families and no children.
The Decay: While the grounds were clean, the amphitheater was rotting, trails were overgrown, and several facilities were shuttered.
The Context: Forest Service budgets have been sliding for years, and my visit coincided with the recent DOGE budget cuts.
It’s a pity to see these public resources rise and fall within a single generation. Perhaps these are just the laments of an aging Boomer, but it’s a sad shift to witness.
I’m glad I went. The cutthroat and the Selway-Bitterroot country remain beautiful. However, this will likely be my last "destination" trip as I continue to explore what’s left of the West in my remaining years.
